How enriching a sport Surfing is to life.The existence of Hideshiro Minami served as an opportunity to know that. Mr.Minami is a famous Japanese professional surfer, known for his continuous attempts at one of the world's top five big waves, Mavericks.In addition, he is a key figure who has earned the trust of top professionals such as Nat Young, Kei Kobayashi, and Shun Murakami, who are supported by Rakuten, and has served as a bridge for their sponsorship agreements.While focusing on the lifestyle of a man who pours his passion into surfing, we unravel the appeal of this sport.

17 years old.The first surfing experience is a diversion from skiing

The late 1970s, said to be the second surfing boom in Japan.At that time, Mr. Minami, who was attending a high school in Meguro Ward, was said to be exploring his future as a ski athlete.He encountered Surfing for the first time during the summer of his second year of high school.The wheels of fate began to quietly turn with a single surfboard that a senior, who had participated in the summer ski camp of Tokyo Sportsman Club’s competition section I joined when I was a junior high school student, brought along for a change of pace.

“At that time, I had improved my skiing to a certain extent, and I was thinking about what kind of event I should proceed with next.At that timing, I was able to try surfing with the board that my senior brought.So, you see, I simply couldn’t ride it well at all.I can’t even stand on the waves. Whether it was fun or frustrating, I started going to the sea once a week in any case.”

It was about a month after I started that I was able to stand on the board by myself.”Surfing is profound,” says Mr. Minami happily, and he continues.

“Don’t you think people have a tendency to quickly lose interest in things that are easy to master? I think I was drawn to surfing because I constantly have to challenge myself with waves that vary depending on the tide level, current, and weather conditions.”

What was supposed to be a distraction, Mr. Minami found himself being drawn to surfing before he knew it.However, at this point, I had no way of knowing.Surfing has become an existence that I would stake my life on–.

22 years old.To California for Study

In fact, Mr. Minami is the sixth generation of a long-standing acupuncture clinic in Osaka.I have been raised as a successor since childhood.Seeing his mother, who is an acupuncturist, and hearing words of gratitude from her patients, Mr. Minami reflects, “It felt like a proud profession.”However, on the other hand, he gradually began to feel constrained by the title of “sixth generation”.

“When I was young, Japan seemed somewhat closed off, and I had a strong impression that acupuncture was a treatment only for the elderly.I was dissatisfied with that, so I obtained the necessary qualifications to become a successor and jumped out of Japan.To begin with, I wasn’t exactly the well-behaved type even during my student days, you know (laughs).

Rather than obtaining a position of authority, Mr.Minami, who dreamed of a free life, ironically chose California, the mecca for surfers around the world.After moving to the United States, I devoted myself to academics, which I could never say was my strength, and studied the different healthcare system in order to obtain local qualifications.Furthermore, I obtained permanent residency in the United States and also opened my own clinic.

“Until about the age of 30, I was only studying and practicing karate, Surfing was about once a week.If I had tried a bit harder at surfing back then, I might have been able to leave a record of catching some better big waves (laughs).However, looking back now, I believe that it was my destiny to promote oriental medicine and integrated healthcare abroad.Since the time I was in my mother’s womb, I could feel the pulse of the patients, and I was inhaling the smoke from burning Chinese herbal medicines and mugwort. That has become my blood and is flowing through my body.So, when asked about this job in America, I would reply, “This is my blood.”

“I can continue working thanks to the guidance of our ancestors”, the rumors about the skilled acupuncturist praising “blood” spread by word of mouth among the workers around Silicon Valley, and have reached even the ears of VIPs.Through martial arts, I train my spirit and strengthen my legs and hips, cleanse my aura by surfing in the sea, and draw energy from nature to engage in patient care.It seems that such a wonderful lifestyle was also created by Surfing.

“There is a type of brainwave, called alpha waves, which are produced when a person is in a relaxed state of mind and body. After surfing, these alpha waves are often more prominent.Paddling strenuously and waiting for waves offshore while feeling the scent and sound of the tide can be effective in improving immunity and reducing stress. Therefore, in the summer, as a form of therapy, we sometimes teach our patients Surfing.”

Engaging with nature sharpens our five senses and promotes self-care.”Ultimately, the fact that I continue to stay healthy while Surfing is the most convincing argument for preventive medicine,” says Mr. Minami, who is confidently over sixty.

Age 37.Encounter with “Mavericks” that Change Life

In discussing Mr. Minami, one cannot overlook the presence of Mavericks, known as one of the world’s five big waves.”Mavericks” refers to a surf point near San Francisco on the west coast of California, where the water temperature is around 12 degrees Celsius due to cold currents. It is characterized by large waves over 10 meters high, which only occur about a dozen times during the winter (from mid-November to around February).Why did Mr. Minami start taking on such harsh conditions?

“The trigger was the existence of pro surfer Jeff Clark, known as a pioneer of the Mavericks.During my student days, I was taken care of by a Mormon pastor at my stay place.So, the son of his close friend, who was a father figure in America, was Jeff Clark. When Jeff Clark’s father found out that I surf, he introduced me to his son, who was active in California at the time.”

Afterwards, Mr. Minami and Jeff Clark began to meet each other at various places such as local surfing competitions.Moreover, it seems he often got injured while challenging big waves, and there were times when Mr. Minami would treat and care for him.

“Jeff Clark is a shaper who makes his own surfboards, and he gave me one saying it was ‘in lieu of medical expenses’.It was a special board called “Big Wave Gun”, designed to counter big waves like the Mavericks.I had it displayed at home for a while, but I thought it was a waste to just look at it, so I decided to give it a try. That was back in 1996, around the season after the legendary big wave rider, Mark Foo of Chinese-Hawaiian descent, tragically lost his life at Mavericks.”

The first ride wasn’t a big wave, but it was a stunning success.”Perhaps I was lucky,” says Mr. Minami, who has since become completely captivated by the Mavericks, changing his lifestyle for the limited opportunities.I shifted my work to the afternoon, and spent the morning and free time exclusively on training.Always prepare without neglect to tackle with a perfect system, and continue to accumulate experience.

“For instance, when you take a flight to Japan, you may easily get sick due to jet lag, or your energy levels might decrease. That’s why I didn’t return to Japan during the winter when the big waves occur.Mavericks is a dangerous point where deaths have occurred, and I too have suffered various injuries such as whiplash, shoulders, knees, etc., and have undergone surgery numerous times.”It’s a place where you really have to risk your life, and dedicate everything, or else you can’t go.”

Not just in Japan, but Mr. Minami is the only Asian who continues to challenge the Mavericks.That driving force was supported by a strong spirit of “not wanting to lose as a Japanese” in California, where white surfers are the majority.

65 years old.What Lies Beyond the Declaration of Lifelong Active Duty

“The combination of medical practice, martial arts, and the way of Surfing produces a synergistic effect, allowing me to lead wonderful days,” says Mr. Minami, who published a book titled “How to Create a Challenging Slow Life” in 2017.It seems that, due in part to this influence, in recent years a younger generation of Japanese surfers has started to visit Mavericks.Moreover, even in big wave competitions, which have a different field from general competitive Surfing, the excitement is evident as strong competitors from around the world visit Mavericks each year to set world records.

“I didn’t want to nullify all the knowledge and experience I had accumulated throughout my life, so I had this feeling that I couldn’t quit until a successor appeared. My record hasn’t been broken yet, but there are some kids who seem likely to break it, which makes me very happy.I hope to support an environment where the Japanese flag can be raised at the Mavericks’ World Championship, while sharing the knowledge I have gained from my own experiences.”

“Surfing is a sport where even Japanese people, with their physique and physical abilities, can compete on par with the world,” says Mr. Minami.In fact, even on a global scale, the level of Japanese surfers today is extremely high.However, among the numerous sports, surfing still falls into the minor category.There are not a few challenges.

“I want to develop it into a sport where more children can aim to become professional surfers economically.Therefore, it is necessary to make surfing a major professional sport. I want to continue making efforts for the support of the next generation surfers, the world surfing community, and for the sports powerhouse, Japan.”

The rise of Japanese successors and next-generation surfers challenging the big waves.Mr. Minami, who continues to pour his passion for a bright future of surfing, has another goal. That is, the Guinness World Record update for the oldest surfer.

“In the end, it’s also for my own sake.Continuing to challenge the Mavericks requires regular training, paying attention to the amount of food and alcohol consumed, and even cutting back on staying up late and partying (laughs).By reviewing lifestyle habits, one can ultimately maintain good health. So, I guess I’d like to stay active until the age of 95.”

With age, the charm of being able to enjoy at your own pace is unique to surfing.I can’t wait to see how Mr.Minami’s pride will be inherited in the future.The passionate, action-oriented life of a professional surfer who creates his own environment and maintains his physical and mental health will continue into the future.

“How to Create a ‘Challenging Slow Life'” (Medical Road of Japan Publishing)

PHOTO: Brett Downen, Takeo Tomine, Fred Pompermayer, Sumiki Osawa
TEXT: Keisuke Honda
EDIT: Yohsuke Watanabe (IN FOCUS)